A Climbing Rope Review August 2009
What To Look For
Most climbing rope is of kernmantle design, that is, with a protective sheath covering an inner core. The core is made up of small white strands weaved or twisted together and then brought together by a colored, braided nylon sheath pattern wrapping around it. The thickness of the rope depends on the amount of twisted strands added into the core as well as the tightness of the weave and twists. Almost all climbing ropes are made of nylon for its inherent stretchiness. Stretch in a climbing rope helps to decrease the impact of a fall. Most rock climbing applications will require a dynamic rope (one that has enough stretch), though there are uses for static rope made of polyester, spectra or nylon with significantly less stretch.
Common Pitfalls
The theme with climbing rope these days is not unlike the modern ideals of pop culture; the skinnier, the better. We now see single rope as small in diameter at 8.9 millimeters. It is not that the strength of these ropes should be suspect--technology and materials have gotten so good, climbing ropes are actually over-engineered when it comes to strength and durability--but more a concern of human inability. The skinnier the rope gets, the more superior your belayer and/or belay device needs to be.
Where To Buy
Strength-wise, climbing rope is climbing rope. It all has to meet standards and pass tests to prove it can hold a minimum amount of weight and withstand certain impact force before it goes on the market. To make sure it does indeed meet these standards, first things first, do not buy from a shady source (like a guy dealing out of the back of his car). All reputable outdoor retailers such as Sport Chalet, R.E.I. and even online stores will undoubtedly only sell climbing rope that meets CE and UIAA standards. If there is ever a question, try to confirm that the rope conforms to those standards. The best way to do that is to research the manufacturer. If they are trustworthy, their business practices will show it.
Cost
Climbing rope in general is not cheap. What might you expect from a form of life support? It is sometimes sold by the foot off spools, but most consumers buy it packaged in 50-, 60- or 70-meter lengths. These can cost anywhere from $150 to almost $300. The price is totally dependent on the length of choice, as well as other features such as dry treatment for water resistance or bi-patterned sheath for ease of finding the middle point.
Comparison Shopping
Climbing rope manufacturers all try to corner different aspects of the market to have a standout product. Some shoot for the skinniest rope available, some the lightest, some the most innovative sheath pattern (the appeal of which is purely cosmetic) and some the latest and greatest way to permanently mark the middle of the rope. In the end, the consumer must base their decision on the attributes of a rope his or her style of climbing most requires. For example, an alpine rock climber might want a lighter, more compact rope while a top rope climber may prefer a thick, indestructible workhorse.
Accessories
Permanently marking the middle has become a competition within the industry, but you can buy special non-toxic rope markers to do it yourself. These markers will likely rub off after a few uses but can be useful on a climb that is particularly dependent on the length of the rope or one with a series of rappels.
Insider Tips
Consumers will pay premiums for special features, some of which are worth it if you can afford such luxuries. All standardized climbing ropes, however, will certainly catch us if we fall irregardless of the money we spent. And as we're well aware, climbing rope will also get scraped up, worn out and sooner or later will need to be replaced. Hunt for those bargains, people!
Article Written By Laura A. Bylund
Laura Bylund is a professional climbing instructor and freelance writer. She is a certified member of organizations such as the AMGA and PCIA. Bylund graduated from the University of California Santa Barbara with a double B.A. in English and Communication. She has written for "Blue Edge Outdoor Adventure Magazine," "Food & Home Magazine," "The Santa Barbara Independent" and Trails.com.
Read more at Trails.com: A Climbing Rope Review | Trails.com
Most climbing rope is of kernmantle design, that is, with a protective sheath covering an inner core. The core is made up of small white strands weaved or twisted together and then brought together by a colored, braided nylon sheath pattern wrapping around it. The thickness of the rope depends on the amount of twisted strands added into the core as well as the tightness of the weave and twists. Almost all climbing ropes are made of nylon for its inherent stretchiness. Stretch in a climbing rope helps to decrease the impact of a fall. Most rock climbing applications will require a dynamic rope (one that has enough stretch), though there are uses for static rope made of polyester, spectra or nylon with significantly less stretch.
Common Pitfalls
The theme with climbing rope these days is not unlike the modern ideals of pop culture; the skinnier, the better. We now see single rope as small in diameter at 8.9 millimeters. It is not that the strength of these ropes should be suspect--technology and materials have gotten so good, climbing ropes are actually over-engineered when it comes to strength and durability--but more a concern of human inability. The skinnier the rope gets, the more superior your belayer and/or belay device needs to be.
Where To Buy
Strength-wise, climbing rope is climbing rope. It all has to meet standards and pass tests to prove it can hold a minimum amount of weight and withstand certain impact force before it goes on the market. To make sure it does indeed meet these standards, first things first, do not buy from a shady source (like a guy dealing out of the back of his car). All reputable outdoor retailers such as Sport Chalet, R.E.I. and even online stores will undoubtedly only sell climbing rope that meets CE and UIAA standards. If there is ever a question, try to confirm that the rope conforms to those standards. The best way to do that is to research the manufacturer. If they are trustworthy, their business practices will show it.
Cost
Climbing rope in general is not cheap. What might you expect from a form of life support? It is sometimes sold by the foot off spools, but most consumers buy it packaged in 50-, 60- or 70-meter lengths. These can cost anywhere from $150 to almost $300. The price is totally dependent on the length of choice, as well as other features such as dry treatment for water resistance or bi-patterned sheath for ease of finding the middle point.
Comparison Shopping
Climbing rope manufacturers all try to corner different aspects of the market to have a standout product. Some shoot for the skinniest rope available, some the lightest, some the most innovative sheath pattern (the appeal of which is purely cosmetic) and some the latest and greatest way to permanently mark the middle of the rope. In the end, the consumer must base their decision on the attributes of a rope his or her style of climbing most requires. For example, an alpine rock climber might want a lighter, more compact rope while a top rope climber may prefer a thick, indestructible workhorse.
Accessories
Permanently marking the middle has become a competition within the industry, but you can buy special non-toxic rope markers to do it yourself. These markers will likely rub off after a few uses but can be useful on a climb that is particularly dependent on the length of the rope or one with a series of rappels.
Insider Tips
Consumers will pay premiums for special features, some of which are worth it if you can afford such luxuries. All standardized climbing ropes, however, will certainly catch us if we fall irregardless of the money we spent. And as we're well aware, climbing rope will also get scraped up, worn out and sooner or later will need to be replaced. Hunt for those bargains, people!
Article Written By Laura A. Bylund
Laura Bylund is a professional climbing instructor and freelance writer. She is a certified member of organizations such as the AMGA and PCIA. Bylund graduated from the University of California Santa Barbara with a double B.A. in English and Communication. She has written for "Blue Edge Outdoor Adventure Magazine," "Food & Home Magazine," "The Santa Barbara Independent" and Trails.com.
Read more at Trails.com: A Climbing Rope Review | Trails.com
The Best One Size Fits All Climbing Harness June 2009
Article Written By Laura A. Bylund
Modern day climbing harnesses are all about comfort. They have come a long way from rope wraps and swami belts. Designers have added leg loops, padding and new ways of better distributing a climber's weight in a sitting position. As a result, harnesses have become more specific to the size of the climber and less adjustable for climbers of multiple sizes.
Why the Need?
Guide companies, climbing schools and gyms benefit from being able to buy one type of harness for their entire clientele. Not only is it easier on the administrator, but giving an orientation and teaching one type of harness to all students in a climbing course makes it easier on instructors and guides as well as on the students. Additionally, families of climbers on a budget can benefit from being able to purchase a harness or two for the entire family to share.
Necessary Features
Necessary features include comfort, which is not necessarily related to the amount of padding; fully adjustable waist belt and leg loops that extend from the smallest climber imaginable to the largest climber imaginable; tie in point(s) and a belay/rappel loop and a gear loop (useful because of the amount of gear used in rock climbing).
Options
No company can possibly make THE best one size fits all harness, as there are pros and cons to each model available. All climbing gear manufacturers try to differentiate their products from the rest, so no one option has all the features you might want. In the end, it is good to have options and make a decision based on what features you personally need the most. The following are some of the best to choose from.
Singing Rock Fly (pictured)
This one accommodates the largest range of sizes. It is the only one size fits all harness that has tie in points separate from the belay/rappel loop, which leads to a more comfortable seat position and is a more practical style for modern climbing harnesses. It teaches good habits for safety checks with buckles that need to be doubled back and also has a gear loop, making it a good all around harness for instructional climbing programs.
Black Diamond Vario Speed Harness
This harness has auto-locking speed buckles, which are good for quick adjustment and safety concerns. It has thick, soft and wide webbing for comfort. It has no gear loop, but does have a haul loop in the back, which can be useful for clipping floor anchors and chalk bags.
Petzl Pandion
The Petzl Pandion is a lightweight, very compressible harness that is easily packed for travel. It's tie in point/belay loop is weaved with Dyneema, making it more resistant to abrasion wear. It also has speed buckles and that useful gear loop.
Topaz Harness by C.A.M.P.
Unlike any other one size fits all climbing harness, the Topaz is equipped with padding on the backs of the waist and leg loops making it more comfortable to hang in. It has two gear loops, one tie in/clip in point and sports those safety conscious speed buckles for quick adjustment.
Considerations
If we were to claim a best overall one-size-fits-all climbing harness, it would have to be the Singing Rock Fly Harness for the following reasons:
-Speed buckles are great for harness rentals in gyms and large group activities; however, buckles that have to be doubled back are best for instructional courses because they teach students to be more aware in checking them for proper set up.
-Most harnesses available to recreational rock climbers for purchase have two separate tie in points (one on the waist belt and one joining the leg loops). The climber must feed the rope through both points in order to tie in. These points are joined together by a belay/rappel loop that is meant for clipping carabiners to.
-Nylon is the age-old material for climbing equipment and proves over and over its superior stretchiness compared to newer, more expensive materials such as Spectra/Dyneema.
Read more at Trails.com: The Best One Size Fits All Climbing Harness | Trails.com
Why the Need?
Guide companies, climbing schools and gyms benefit from being able to buy one type of harness for their entire clientele. Not only is it easier on the administrator, but giving an orientation and teaching one type of harness to all students in a climbing course makes it easier on instructors and guides as well as on the students. Additionally, families of climbers on a budget can benefit from being able to purchase a harness or two for the entire family to share.
Necessary Features
Necessary features include comfort, which is not necessarily related to the amount of padding; fully adjustable waist belt and leg loops that extend from the smallest climber imaginable to the largest climber imaginable; tie in point(s) and a belay/rappel loop and a gear loop (useful because of the amount of gear used in rock climbing).
Options
No company can possibly make THE best one size fits all harness, as there are pros and cons to each model available. All climbing gear manufacturers try to differentiate their products from the rest, so no one option has all the features you might want. In the end, it is good to have options and make a decision based on what features you personally need the most. The following are some of the best to choose from.
Singing Rock Fly (pictured)
This one accommodates the largest range of sizes. It is the only one size fits all harness that has tie in points separate from the belay/rappel loop, which leads to a more comfortable seat position and is a more practical style for modern climbing harnesses. It teaches good habits for safety checks with buckles that need to be doubled back and also has a gear loop, making it a good all around harness for instructional climbing programs.
Black Diamond Vario Speed Harness
This harness has auto-locking speed buckles, which are good for quick adjustment and safety concerns. It has thick, soft and wide webbing for comfort. It has no gear loop, but does have a haul loop in the back, which can be useful for clipping floor anchors and chalk bags.
Petzl Pandion
The Petzl Pandion is a lightweight, very compressible harness that is easily packed for travel. It's tie in point/belay loop is weaved with Dyneema, making it more resistant to abrasion wear. It also has speed buckles and that useful gear loop.
Topaz Harness by C.A.M.P.
Unlike any other one size fits all climbing harness, the Topaz is equipped with padding on the backs of the waist and leg loops making it more comfortable to hang in. It has two gear loops, one tie in/clip in point and sports those safety conscious speed buckles for quick adjustment.
Considerations
If we were to claim a best overall one-size-fits-all climbing harness, it would have to be the Singing Rock Fly Harness for the following reasons:
-Speed buckles are great for harness rentals in gyms and large group activities; however, buckles that have to be doubled back are best for instructional courses because they teach students to be more aware in checking them for proper set up.
-Most harnesses available to recreational rock climbers for purchase have two separate tie in points (one on the waist belt and one joining the leg loops). The climber must feed the rope through both points in order to tie in. These points are joined together by a belay/rappel loop that is meant for clipping carabiners to.
-Nylon is the age-old material for climbing equipment and proves over and over its superior stretchiness compared to newer, more expensive materials such as Spectra/Dyneema.
Read more at Trails.com: The Best One Size Fits All Climbing Harness | Trails.com
What is Rappelling? January 2009
Article Written By Laura A. Bylund
Rappelling (or abseiling) is a reasonably safe means of getting down from a technical impasse in vertical terrain. It is used in adventure sports, wilderness travel, rescue scenarios and military tactics.
Function
Rappelling can be used on mountains, rock ledges, waterfalls, sea cliffs, natural or manmade towers, buildings or even low-angle slopes that would be dangerous to walk down.
Equipment
Rappellers use strong nylon or polyester ropes with varying degrees of stretchability, and anchoring materials such as rope or nylon webbing to tie to trees, boulders, rock horns, bolts and/or pitons.
Descent control devices are small metal tools used to create friction and aid a rappeller's brake hand in slowing downward progress.
Multiple carabiners (strong metal links with gates that open and sometimes lock when closed) are connected to anchors and/or decent control devices.
A harness is a necessity in order to stay safely connected into the system.
Types
A double rope rappel means that two strands of rope are hanging from the anchor and running through the device and the rappeller's hand. In a single rope system, the rope is fixed at the anchor and the rappeller descends using only one strand.
Retrievable v.s. non-retrievable rappel site setups are identifed by whether the group can pull the rope and/or anchor down from the bottom.
Australian vs. standard rappelling describes the body position of the rappeller: In Australian rappelling, you face downward; in standard, you come down in a sitting position.
Speed and style while rappelling are largely dependent on the type of descent control device being used. Figure-eight plates are notoriously very slick and rappel racks have adjustable bars that slide to increase or decrease the amount of friction. If used correctly, these devices can be quite smooth. Less-smooth devices in tube- and simple plate-like forms have more friction, giving the rappeller more control and ability to slow down.
Auto-locking devices have a camming mechanism that will pinch and lock off the rope under body weight. These are not the best tools for rappeling because they require two experiencd hands to control while descending. The Munter Hitch is a movable hitch in the rope used in conjunction with a locking carabiner. It has an incredible amount of holding power and is a great backup in the event of dropping a device, but tends to make the rope squirrely if not held in the proper brake position. Threading the rope through carabiners to create friction is another backup trick.
Before the discovery of the Munter Hitch and the manufacture of metal descent control devices, mountaineers used to wrap the rope around their bodies to create friction and aid descent.
Climbing/Mountaineering
For mountain and rock climbers, rappelling is simply a means of accessing climbing routes, getting back down or escaping a route. It usually means they are either done climbing and are rappelling as part of the descent or they need to retreat mid-climb for some reason. Rock climbers and mountaineers rarely rappel for fun of it.
Caving/Canyoneering
In contrast to climbing, rappelling is actually the main focus of caving and canyoneering. Cavers rappel down vertically oriented caves in their adventures and canyoneers drop into canyons in hopes of finding cliffs and waterfalls to negotiate.
Warning & Considerations
Rappelling can be a very dangerous activity if not executed properly. Doing it safely is totally dependent on the strength of the anchor, proper setup of the device or hitch, constant grasp of one's hand(s) on the rope, and the end of the rope being set to proper length or managed by a stopper knot.
Read more at Trails.com: What Is Rappeling? | Trails.com
Function
Rappelling can be used on mountains, rock ledges, waterfalls, sea cliffs, natural or manmade towers, buildings or even low-angle slopes that would be dangerous to walk down.
Equipment
Rappellers use strong nylon or polyester ropes with varying degrees of stretchability, and anchoring materials such as rope or nylon webbing to tie to trees, boulders, rock horns, bolts and/or pitons.
Descent control devices are small metal tools used to create friction and aid a rappeller's brake hand in slowing downward progress.
Multiple carabiners (strong metal links with gates that open and sometimes lock when closed) are connected to anchors and/or decent control devices.
A harness is a necessity in order to stay safely connected into the system.
Types
A double rope rappel means that two strands of rope are hanging from the anchor and running through the device and the rappeller's hand. In a single rope system, the rope is fixed at the anchor and the rappeller descends using only one strand.
Retrievable v.s. non-retrievable rappel site setups are identifed by whether the group can pull the rope and/or anchor down from the bottom.
Australian vs. standard rappelling describes the body position of the rappeller: In Australian rappelling, you face downward; in standard, you come down in a sitting position.
Speed and style while rappelling are largely dependent on the type of descent control device being used. Figure-eight plates are notoriously very slick and rappel racks have adjustable bars that slide to increase or decrease the amount of friction. If used correctly, these devices can be quite smooth. Less-smooth devices in tube- and simple plate-like forms have more friction, giving the rappeller more control and ability to slow down.
Auto-locking devices have a camming mechanism that will pinch and lock off the rope under body weight. These are not the best tools for rappeling because they require two experiencd hands to control while descending. The Munter Hitch is a movable hitch in the rope used in conjunction with a locking carabiner. It has an incredible amount of holding power and is a great backup in the event of dropping a device, but tends to make the rope squirrely if not held in the proper brake position. Threading the rope through carabiners to create friction is another backup trick.
Before the discovery of the Munter Hitch and the manufacture of metal descent control devices, mountaineers used to wrap the rope around their bodies to create friction and aid descent.
Climbing/Mountaineering
For mountain and rock climbers, rappelling is simply a means of accessing climbing routes, getting back down or escaping a route. It usually means they are either done climbing and are rappelling as part of the descent or they need to retreat mid-climb for some reason. Rock climbers and mountaineers rarely rappel for fun of it.
Caving/Canyoneering
In contrast to climbing, rappelling is actually the main focus of caving and canyoneering. Cavers rappel down vertically oriented caves in their adventures and canyoneers drop into canyons in hopes of finding cliffs and waterfalls to negotiate.
Warning & Considerations
Rappelling can be a very dangerous activity if not executed properly. Doing it safely is totally dependent on the strength of the anchor, proper setup of the device or hitch, constant grasp of one's hand(s) on the rope, and the end of the rope being set to proper length or managed by a stopper knot.
Read more at Trails.com: What Is Rappeling? | Trails.com
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